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 Normally
we guide the mountain by the Hornli Ridge on a private basis
with one person. Also I prefer to have spent some time beforehand
with those involved on training routes in order to acclimatise
and ensure that rope techniques are understood. To this end
I recommend at least six or seven days together in the Alps,
with an attempt on the peak towards the end of that period.
It is also helpful but not essential for people to visit me
in Scotland for a scrambling/climbing course in either/or
winter/summer. In order to attempt the peak, previous experience
of simple rock climbing to ‘Difficult’ standard
and scrambling on long mountain routes is essential, plus
skills in using crampons and ice axe on ‘mixed ground’.
The best time for an attempt on the Matterhorn is during
July to early September, as this allows time for the winter/spring
snows to clear properly. However, a cold summer storm will
deposit snow on the peak and then it will become less possible
to climb. Two people can be accommodated for the training
days prior to the ascent, when an extra guide is bought in.This
allows the cost to be reduced per person. If clients can arrive
fit and acclimatised it will be possible to attempt the peak
over two days on a 1:1 basis.
- By arrangement (June to September)
- £260 per day (1 person)
- £270 per day (2 person)
Please remember that personal and guides hut fees and cable
car costs must be added to the daily guiding rate. Hut costs
in 2007 were £20/£30 per night, whilst cable cars
vary between £10.00-£20.00
Bookings for the Alps are often full by early in the New
Year, and an early decision is required to secure a Guide.
Alpine kit list
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